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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.